Walk Like An Egyptian

We knew that getting to our hotel in Cairo was going to be a challenge as the map on the bookings website was different to the two other potential sites shown on the internet. But we came prepared with our Google maps of the downtown area. Adrian had researched that the cheapest way to get downtown was to transfer on the free bus to the domestic terminal, take the public bus 246 to Egyptian Museum and then take the metro train 2 stops. All the potential locations for our hotel were within walking distance of this metro station.

Things started out well at the airport. We obtained some local currency, our visa and bags, cleared customs without problem, found the shuttle bus and successfully transferred to the domestic terminal and found what we thought were the local buses. We asked a bus driver where to find the 246 bus, “to downtown?” we thought we heard him clarify and we nodded, “here” he said and motioned us to the door. We had thought we had done pretty well as by this time we had fended off offers from about 20 taxi drivers.

We took our seats and the bus took off and later came to halt in a back street where it was time to pay the fare. Joy handed him a 20 pound note expecting 16 in change but the driver wanted another 20 pounds. As we were in no position to negotiate we handed over the money and proceeded to be taken to a bus stop in central Cairo. We quickly learned that pulling a suitcase is arabic for ‘I want a taxi’ and a continuous stream pulled up to offer us a ride. We sought directions to the Metro from passersby but eventually gave in to the advances of taxis and negotiated a price to take us to our hotel.

Once in the taxi, the driver tried to negotiate his services for a tour of Cairo, “just take us to the hotel” we asked. We crossed the Nile several times and then down some back lanes and before coming to halt outside a hotel. “This hotel very good, very cheap, you want to look?” It wasn’t our hotel, nor was the next one he took us to and eventually we asked to be taken to the Metro station. He said the station we wanted to go to didn’t exist but eventually we did get to a station from where we took the train one stop to our station and managed to find our hotel after a couple of phone calls (it was option 3 on the Google map).

In the evening of our first night we took a stroll through downtown Cairo and found the site where we were dropped off by the bus (about 15 minutes walk away). Cairo gets busier by the hour and when we returned to our hotel after 11pm the streets were teaming with people, the coffee shops were full and the shops were doing a roaring trade.Yesterday we toured the Egyptian Museum and wandered the back lanes of Old Cairo and learned our first Arabic word ‘bahkish’. “Bahkish, bahkish” said the cleaner who opened the door to show us an ancient chapel, “Bahkish, bahkish” said the Tourist Police who showed us a good spot to take a photo, “Bahkish, bahkish”. We learned quickly that bahkish is the bribe you pay for accepting unsolicited advice or services it is different to a tip which you pay when you initiate the service request.

Today was tour of the pyramids and sphinx on horseback, a visit to the stepped pyramid, Saqqara and an excursion inside a pyramid at Dahshur. Tomorrow is our last full day in Cairo and we are planning on visiting the Citadel.

We are enjoying the local cuisine, have managed to survive crossing the streets and are getting used to the sweet acrid aroma that permeates the air.